WTF-J

OK, time to do something about the bare aluminum tub.  The outside is fine like it is, but the interior needs some work.  Plan “A” was to go to Line-X or Rhino Liner and get them to put in a spray-in bed liner.  I had estimated $400-500 to get it done, but a call to Line-X came back with a quote of $800 as long as I stripped the interior bare and sprayed it with a coat of self-etching primer.  Say what? Time for Plan “B”

Looking at the DIY options, U-Pol Raptor (OK, so the category has it’s issues with straight names, as shown by names like Lizard Skin and Dead Liner.) got the draw. 

Based on a couple of installs documented in some of the builders’ forums this stuff out of the UK has:

• Reasonable cost,
• Easy (enough) to apply,
• Extreme durability, and
• Great appearance

U-Pol Raptor is available as a tintable base to make it any color, but basic black is the color of choice for the WTF-J.  Surprisingly, the material is packaged in the UK and then shipped here for distribution.  The other surprise is that some of their kits include the Schutz type spray gun, but others don’t.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to figure out the difference in the part numbers.  (Update: Even buying the gun separately on E-Bay, the deal from R.W. Mallon on material was still the lowest cost option.) 

Normally, one kit (4*1L) would be enough to line a Jeep tub, but as the WTF-J has the longer CJ-8 wheelbase, the decision was to go with two kits and any extra will line the rear wheel wells and rocker guards.

So, time to clean out the tub.  In this pic, the cage and bed rails are out along with the tailgate, ammo can console,  and rear body mount.

This was a great opportunity to “fix” the rivets on the tailgate before covering them with the bed liner compound. The issue is that the tailgate design requires the back side of the pop rivet to be exposed along the hinge (Below).

The fix is to use a hammer and dolly to peen the backside of the rivet.

Dramatically cleans up the appearance.

Other (planned) quick fixes included:

• Shorten the “keeper” on the spare tire capture nut
• Relocate the  seat belt anchors
• Remove the bikini Velcro from the top of the roll bar
• Mod the tube doors to keep the door straps from falling off
• Painting bolts and a variety of small parts
• Relocate center exhaust hanger
• May have to  fix some wiring and wire management issues under the dash.

Once the seats and trans cover come out it will be time for rough sanding, power washing, and primer.

More to come…

Taped & Masked

Primed

First Coat

2nd Coat

Here are the quick fix items…

Clean up some under dash wiring and fab a relay block (Time to activate the cruise control that exists within the Drive by Wire ECM)

Rubberized coating on the safety harness anchors (Quiet down the rattling), same deal for the base of the Hi Lift.

The open air WTF-J is tough on black oxide finished hardware.  Made up a painting jig out of a scrap 2×4 and problem solved.  Added a “collar” to the restraining strap post on the tube door

Fabbed a bezel for the Atlas T/C shifter boot.  Bolt heads easily cut through rubber material with or without washers.

And now all the kings horses and all the king’s men will spend the weekend putting the WTF-J back together again.